The best way to see Maine? Sailing on a windjammer

by Beth Graham

People often ask about my favorite trip or the best place I’ve traveled to. But for me, it’s not so much about the places as it is the experiences. I’ve had adventurous experiences, culturally enlightening one, great foodie trips and so many more. But one of the most unique experiences I’ve had was sailing on a historic schooner along the coast of Maine

I found myself at the docks of Rockland ready to embark on a sailing adventure aboard the historic Stephen Taber, one of the oldest operating wooden schooners in the United States. 

The Allure of Windjammer Cruises 

Maine’s coastal beauty is best appreciated from the deck of a traditional sailing vessel. These majestic wooden ships, known as windjammers, have been part of the state’s maritime heritage for generations. Each vessel has its own story, with many dating back to the early 20th century. 

When you step aboard, you’re not just on a boat—you’re entering a living piece of history. The Stephen Taber, built in 1871, is the oldest sailing vessel in continuous service in the United States and a registered National Historic Landmark. The Barnes family has owned the Taber for more than 30 years and its current captain, Noah Barnes, began his sailing career at the ripe old age of six. Over the years, she has weathered countless storms, undergone meticulous restorations, and evolved with the times, all while maintaining her original charm. 

I was a little concerned about traveling in such close quarters with 22 people I didn’t know but making new friends is all part of the experience. Everyone onboard has a sense of adventure and not to mention, this was a food, wine and chocolate cruise! Despite the cozy quarters and sharing one of two communal bathrooms with these people, the free flowing wine and spirited conversation led us all to become fast friends. 

Daily Life on a Windjammer Cruise

Our course changed daily, and in some cases by the hour, depending on the weather. The first day, I asked, “Where are we going?” Noah shook his head, “I don’t know.” We were still early in the season and winds were shifting so he was literally taking it minute by minute.

The crew often invited us to join in the sailing process, and I quickly found myself hoisting the sails alongside seasoned sailors. The moment the wind filled the canvas, the schooner sprang to life, gliding gracefully over the water. I could feel the power of nature as we left the dock behind and ventured into the open sea. The panoramic views were nothing short of breathtaking. With the sun glistening off the water, the surrounding islands dotted with lush greenery provided a stunning backdrop. 

Days aboard the schooner are filled with activities that celebrate both relaxation and adventure. You might find yourself lounging on deck with a good book, indulging in delicious meals prepared by the crew, or joining in on guided excursions to explore charming coastal towns. Each day brings new opportunities to connect with fellow passengers and the natural beauty that surrounds you. One of the highlights of the journey is the chance to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. There’s something incredibly refreshing about being out on the open water, where the only distractions are the sounds of the sea and the wind in the sails.

Dining Onboard a Windjammer

The food was nothing short of extraordinary. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients transformed into mouthwatering dishes fueled our conversations and laughter. We awoke one morning to lobster eggs Benedict as the chef poached 40 eggs in one morning and paired them with leftovers from the prior evening’s lobster bake. He broke down and confited 24 duck legs in the galley and made rillette (the stock produced a very elegant risotto) and duck bacon. He made fresh pasta and baked scratch-made cookies every day. Breakfast was always homey and hearty with fresh breads and homemade jams.. Lunch was often a warm bowl of soup or stew served in a random coffee mug, perfect for warding off the early season chill. At 5pm sharp, a happy hour spread of hors d’oeuvres, decadent cheeses and exquisite wines led to great conversation. Dinner was nothing short of a multi-course gourmet feast.

One of the highlights of the voyage was the chance to connect with nature. The crew shared their knowledge about the local marine ecosystem, pointing out seals basking on rocks and various seabirds soaring above. The tranquility of the ocean, combined with the sights and sounds of wildlife, created an intimate connection with the environment. As the afternoon wore on, we dropped anchor in a secluded cove. With the sun beginning to dip on the horizon, we took to the water for a refreshing swim, the coolness of the ocean invigorating us after hours of sailing. 

As night fell, we gathered on deck as the sky transitioned from vibrant oranges and pinks to deep blues and purples. Captain Noah would pull out his guitar and entertain us as we sat under a blanket of stars, the sound of waves gently lapping against the hull. Conversations flowed easily, and the camaraderie among guests created a sense of family aboard the Stephen Taber. 

The breathtaking views and new friendships made the journey so spectacular, but also gave me a renewed sense of adventure. Sailing aboard a historic schooner is more than just a vacation; it’s an experience that connects you deeply with nature and the maritime history of Maine.

The Stephen Taber is one of eight ships in the Maine Windjammer Association fleet, which sail out of the charming seaside ports of Rockland and Camden. They offer pre-season, summer sailing and fall foliage tours. But book early as most boats are booked every season.

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