When I was an expat living in Milan, Italy, Tuscany became our escape from the hectic city life. After a few visits, we felt like “locals”, and preferred renting a villa in Tuscany over staying in a tourist hotel. That’s when I discovered the agriturismo concept, which is the best way to experience Tuscany.
What is an agriturismo?
Agriturismi are accommodations located on working farms in Italy. The term is derived from the Italian words “agricoltura” (agriculture) and “turismo” (tourism). The agriturismo program was established by the government in 1985 to promote agricultural tourism in the Italian countryside. Landowners received subsidies to build apartments and villas on their properties to accommodate guests seeking a more authentic Italian experience. These establishments are often working farms that offer lodging and sometimes meals to guests, providing a unique opportunity to experience rural life, local cuisine, and agricultural practices.
One of my favorites is Agriturismo Belagaggio in the charming village of Montefollonico. The accommodations are modern and accompanied by plenty of amenities like on-site pools, fire pits, barbecues, walking trails, horseback riding, and more. It’s kind of the all-inclusive resort version of Italian vacationing.
I took my mom and two kids for a week to really fully immerse ourselves in the Tuscan culture. We spent our days visiting wineries along the Chianti Trail and exploring Tuscan hillside towns; then, we’d retreat to the farm’s pool every afternoon with an assortment of wines, cheeses, and cured meats we’d picked up in our travels. The farm housed eight different families so the best part of the day was gathering around the pool to share stories of the day’s adventures and discoveries.
Being a foodie, I would often stand in the cucina and watch our hostess, Antonella, prepare the evening meal. From chopping unfamiliar vegetables to plucking the chickens, I was eager to learn everything I could about this way of life. I would follow her down to the cellar where prosciutto hung from the ceiling while curing. My children enjoyed exploring the wide-open fields and on occasion, watched as Antonella or Nonna would choose one of the chickens who would be our dinner “guest” that evening. I’m not sure they realized the cute bunnies were also on the menu.
On our final evening, the family hosted a dinner for all of the guests which included an extravagant, multi-course meal with copious amounts of wine, followed by live entertainment from Nonno’s accordion.